Arnhem travel and city guide
Explore the Dutch city that has become a place of pilgrimage for so many people with links to World War II.
Visit the eastern Dutch city that was the battleground of ‘Operation Market Garden’, and inspired A Bridge Too Far.
Why visit Arnhem?
People mainly come to Arnhem to see the World War II military sites and find out more about the history of the Battle of Arnhem. For war veterans and their families, this Dutch city is a place of pilgrimage, having a similar status as the battlefield sites of World War I, Ypres, the Somme and the Normandy beaches. The city is also rich in cultural attractions, green space and offers plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities, being located in Gelderland. It’s close to two National Parks and in one of the hillier regions of the Netherlands.
What is Arnhem known for?
The battleplan for ‘Operation Market Garden’. (Image credit: Ranger Steve at English Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons)
The city of Arnhem is most famous as the site of a major battle towards the end of World War II. In September 1944, in the largest airborne operation of all time, 35,000 Allied troops were dropped behind enemy lines in the Netherlands in an ambitious but ultimately failed attempt to capture a bridgehead from the German army. This plan was codenamed ‘Operation Market Garden’. Fierce fighting in Arnhem and neighbouring Oosterbeek cost thousands of lives over just a few short days, events which inspired the blockbuster Hollywood movie A Bridge Too Far.
Top places to visit in Arnhem
The John Frost Bridge
Securing the main road bridge over the Lower Rhine river at Arnhem was the key objective of Operation Market Garden, and anyone interested in military history will want to visit it. The bridge was rebuilt after the war and renamed after John Dutton Frost, the commander of the British forces who defended the bridge valiantly against overwhelming odds in 1944. Today you can walk across the bridge and there is free admission to a fascinating exhibition called ‘Airborne at the Bridge’, housed in a circular viewing platform with superb views of the bridge. Nearby is the Airborne Memorial, a stone monument commemorating all those who died during the Battle of Arnhem.
The John Frost Bridge, illuminated at night
St Eusebius Church
Another unmissable sight in Arnhem is St Eusebius Church, the city’s largest religious building. The Eusebiuskerk was extensively damaged during the Battle of Arnhem and was rebuilt, but large parts of the original 15th-century building still survive, including the spooky crypt. The church is open to the public and has become a major visitor attraction, with highlights including the paratrooper memorial installation hanging from the vaulted ceiling, and the glass elevator that takes visitors up 73 metres into the tower. The elevator is also an exhibition – you’ll learn more about the local people who tried to protect the church during the battle. That’s not all – you can step outside onto a glass balcony for spectacular views over the city, most notably the John Frost Bridge.
Sonsbeek Park
Often called the most beautiful city centre park in the Netherlands, Sonsbeek Park is situated in the northern part of Arnhem. It is a lush, landscaped park that exploits the undulating ground to great advantage, combining wide open sweeping spaces with more intimate terraced garden areas. Modern art is important in Arnhem, and Sonsbeek Park has also become the venue for the Sonsbeek outdoor sculpture exhibition, which began in 1949 and continues to this day, with new commissioned sculptures being placed around the park in every edition. Some of the world’s leading artists have had new work exhibited at Sonsbeek, and many pieces remain permanently on show.
Sonsbeek Park
The best museums in Arnhem
Airborne Museum at Hartenstein
The location of some museums are historic in itself. The Airborne Museum at Hartenstein is housed in the former Hotel Hartenstein in Oosterbeek, which the 1st Airborne Division turned into their headquarters for Operation Market Garden. There are several different exhibitions here – the permanent exhibition, telling the day by day account of the Battle of Arnhem, from the first parachute drops to the retreat back across the Rhine; the ‘Airborne Experience’, an immersive audio and visual experience where you follow in the footsteps of an Allied paratrooper; and the ‘Remembrance Room’, where soldiers and civilians are remembered with displays of their medals. Visitors can walk in the Airborne Cemetery in the museum’s extensive grounds, a special and poignant place for relatives of anyone who fought and died at Arnhem.
Museum Arnhem
Museum Arnhem is one of the leading museums for modern art in the Netherlands, showcasing work in the visual arts, applied art and design. The museum often features major work by leading names in Dutch contemporary art, and exhibits nationally important collections of jewelry design. The museum also has a sculpture park with works by Henry Moore and Kees Franse. Tickets to the museum should be booked in advance. The museum is closed on Mondays.
Netherlands Open Air Museum
Go back in time at the Netherlands Open Air Museum
Arnhem is not defined by what happened there in 1944. The Nederlands Openluchtmuseum (Open Air Museum) opened in 1918, and tells a deeper, longer story about how Dutch people have lived and worked since Roman times. Spread over 44 hectares with more than 100 different buildings, this is a ‘green’ museum, where you travel on a tram between time periods, through houses, farms, mills and workshops, getting off where you like and seeing people going about their daily lives. It is a fascinating recreation of Dutch national life, epitomised by green gabled houses, brightly coloured windmills and the sights and smells of times gone by. Learn how cheese is made and get a family photo circa 1900!
Arnhem War Museum
Located on the outskirts of the city, the Oorlogsmuseum (War Museum) displays a huge collection of objects, uniforms, weapons and vehicles from World War II, painstakingly curated by the museum’s founder, Eef Peeters. Perhaps more for the military memorabilia fans, this is a museum where the hardware tells the story of the Battle of Arnhem, and leaves you more in awe of the bravery of the young men who fought here.
Top things to do in Arnhem
Gelderland is a great area for a bike ride
Explore Burgers' Zoo and Safari Park
Not far from the Netherlands Open Air Museum is Burgers’ Zoo and Safari Park, a great family day out! The zoo’s various habitats include desert, mangrove, tropical rainforest and the African savannah. Among hundreds of animals, reptiles and birds you’ll see rhinos, tigers, wildebeest, cheetahs, gibbons, zebras, giraffe and sun bears – the latter a rare sight indeed at a European zoo. The zoo and safari park is open all year round.
Go shopping in Arnhem city centre
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to shopping in Arnhem. You’ll find a huge array of big name fashion retailers, independent boutiques and department stores, centred on the main shopping streets of Ketelstraat, Bakkerstraat and Koningstraat. The main out of town shopping centres are the Kronenburg and Presikhaaf malls – the Kronenburg mall is in the south of the city just off the Nijmeegseweg arterial road, and the Presikhaaf is to the east of the city centre. Wander through the historic lanes of the ‘7 Straatjes’ (seven streets) in Arnhem old town for vintage bargains, artisan crafts and cosy cafes.
Cycle along the Rhine
As with any Dutch city, cycling is one of the best ways to get about. There are plenty of places to hire a bike for the day, and so many different routes to choose. You could follow the Airborne Cycle Route, cycling along the southern banks of the Rhine to the ferry point at Driel, then along the northern bank to Doorwerth Castle, the 1st Airborne Division’s landing point in Heelsum, and return via Oosterbeek. Or cycle out on a loop into the surrounding countryside, such as the tranquil Liemers region of rivers, plains and meadows.
Plan your trip to Arnhem
Arnhem is only 4 ½ hours from Calais
Driving to Arnhem from Calais
It takes around 4 ½ hours to drive from the LeShuttle terminal at Calais to Arnhem. The most direct route is via Dunkirk, Ghent and Antwerp, on the E40 and E17 motorways through Belgium, and the A67 and A50 in the Netherlands. You could be in Calais in just 35 minutes with LeShuttle.
Driving to Arnhem from Amsterdam
If you are holidaying in Amsterdam, Arnhem makes an excellent destination for a day trip, and is only an hour and 15 minute drive from the Dutch capital.
Where to stay in Arnhem
Finding a bed for the night will not be a problem in Arnhem. The city is famed for its hospitality, and there is a wealth of hotels, B&Bs, hostels and campsites to choose from. For something a bit different, why not book one of the rooms in the Drijfpaleis, a floating B&B on the Rhine? This houseboat is a colourful sight on the banks of the river, designed in the style of a Tuscan villa, and available to book from May to October.
Visit Arnhem with LeShuttle
Whether you have family links to an Arnhem veteran or not, a trip to the historic city of Arnhem is moving and memorable.
